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My ½” bowl gouge is sharpened to the profile
of a spindle gouge with a total angle of bevel and flute less than
90 degrees. I use this gouge for turning the tenon and shoulder because
it can cut into the tight transition area. |
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Cutting the straight tenon to fit in the
chuck jaws. This would also work for tuning a tenon to glue in the
recess of a waste block on a faceplate. |
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Cutting in toward the tenon to form a square
or slightly undercut shoulder against which the chuck jaws can seat. |
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The finished straight tenon and shoulder. |
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Be careful with sharp edges on spinning wood. Most of
my cuts and scrapes have come from contact with a shape edge on the rotating
wood. Relieve the edge with the gouge. |
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Shear scraping cut. The gouge angled about
45 degrees to the wood surface and the top flute nearly touching the
wood. The shear scrape is a light finish cut used to remove ridges
or very slightly torn grain. The gouge moves along the wood surface
refining the shape and removing any high spots. The gouge can move
back and forth over the wood surface. Stop the lathe and check the
wood surface to see which direction gives the best results. |
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You can see from this view that the top
flute of the gouge just clears the surface. This is a scraping cut
and will dull the gouge quickly so be prepared to sharpen often for
best results. |
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Shavings produces by shear scrape. |
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The rough bowl shape and clean cut end grain areas. I
am now ready to mount the tenon in the chuck. |
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Reverse the blank and grip the tenon in
the chuck jaws. The outer edge of the jaws should contact the shoulder
of the tenon for best support. The larger diameter contact area of
the jaws gives better lateral support. This does not mean the foot
will be this large on the finished bowl. Visualize the shape of the
foot in the finished piece being inside the larger area chucked in
the jaws. Never let the chuck or faceplate dictate the shape of a
bowl or vessel. Removal of excess wood at the bottom comes later.
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