Click image for enlarged view |
|
 |
Measures the thickness of the wood at the
bottom to determine how much excess you have to remove. I tape a ruler
on the end of my double-ended calipers to see the measurement. |
 |
I am going to reverse the bowl on to a jam
chuck that fits in the interior of the bowl curve. Make the jam chuck
from a wood that is softer than the turned bowl and round the edges of
the jam chuck to help prevent marring the finished piece. This also works
with natural edge bowl because it does not rely on the bowl rim for support. |
 |
I use a piece of self-stick sand paper with
the grit side to the bowl surface. The fine grit will not damage the
surface unless you get a big catch and spin the bowl on the jam chuck. |
 |
I still have the original center mark from
the tailstock to center the bowl by when I reverse to turn the foot. |
 |
The bowl compressed on the jam chuck and centered
on the tailstock end. |
 |
Turn the waste wood down to a smooth enough
cylinder to mark where the bottom of the bowl needs to be. |
 |
Shape the bottom section of the bowl to blend
in with the rest of the bowl profile. |
 |
I am going to turn a small detailed area for
the actual foot. I am cutting against the grain with a small spindle
gouge to define a transition from bowl side to foot. |