Click image for enlarged view |
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Refine the curve at the top of the cap
near the chuck before hollowing that area. |
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The interior of the cap finish turned. Power sand some
now to save on sanding time later. |
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I will use this waste wood chuck with fine grit
sand paper attached to reverse the cap on for final turning of the
top. The grit side of the sand paper will contact the interior of the
cap to provide the drive friction. |
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With the cap reversed and driven by compression
between the jam chuck and the tailstock center I can now finish turn
the top of the cap. I use shear-scraping cuts for this. |
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The rounded top section blended in with
the rest of the cap surface.
If you are unsure of the thickness of
the wood at the top, stop the lathe, remove the cap, measure and
then remount the cap on the lathe. You can do this as many times as
needed.
I personally don't mind being cautious at this stage of the turning
when it means the difference between a finished cap or turning through
the top and ruining the piece I have spent all this time working
on. |
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Sanding the top area of the cap. |
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Most caps have a button on the top where
all the seams come together so turn one on the cap. |
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I use a fine tooth hacksaw blade to cut
the small amount of wood away above the button detail. |
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Use the bill of a cap as a template to
mark the bill of the wood cap for cutting. |
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Bandsaw the waste wood off from around
the cap. Always be aware of where your fingers are in relation to the
blade of the saw. The uneven edge of the cap on the table surface can
be tricky to work with but the wood is thin and doesn’t resist very
much. |